How to Do a Korean Lash Lift: Step-by-Step Guide for Lash Artists
A Korean lash lift lifts the natural lashes from root to tip on a flat silicone shield, creating a visibly elongated, sweeping, feathery result — an elegant enhancement rather than a tight curl. The technique is glueless: a tacky paste softens the lashes and holds them in place at the same time. This guide covers the full protocol — mixing ratios, step-by-step application, and the flex check that tells you when the lift is ready.
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If you have watched a Korean lash lift being performed and wondered how the lashes stay on the shield without any adhesive — that's the paste. The entire technique is built around it: a mix of Elleeplex Profusion lotion and Elleemix Powder that grips, softens, and shapes the lashes all at once. This guide walks through how to do a Korean lash lift with the Elleeplex Profusion system — which clients it serves best, what you need, the mixing ratios, the full step-by-step protocol, and the flex check that replaces the stopwatch.
1. What Makes the Korean Method Different
The Korean lash lift is built around one idea: the product does the holding. Step 1 is mixed with Elleemix Powder into a creamy, tacky paste, and that paste does two jobs at once — it begins softening the lash bonds while its grip holds each lash exactly where you place it on a flat shield. There is no adhesive anywhere in the service.
Because the lashes are already relaxing as you wrap them, they move where you guide them instead of springing back against you. The non-drip consistency keeps the formula precisely where you put it — no runoff, no migration, no mid-service corrections. And the flat shield lifts the lashes more strongly from the base and gives them a straighter upward direction, so they appear longer and more defined — that elongated, feathery finish clients ask for by name. The final curl comes from the rod or shield you choose in Step 2, which means you control both the strength of the lift and the shape of the result.
It belongs on your menu alongside your traditional lift, as a second option matched to the client in front of you. For a full comparison of the two techniques and results, read the Korean Lash Lift vs. Traditional Lash Lift guide.
2. When a Korean Lash Lift Is the Right Fit
The biggest mistake artists make with any new technique is using it on everyone. The Korean method is another tool in your kit — matching it to the right client is what separates good results from great ones. These are the indicators to look for in your consultation:
- ✓Resistant, coarse, or thick lashes that have underperformed with traditional technique.
- ✓Downward or strongly forward natural growth — a growth direction that works against a curved rod and tends to revert quickly.
- ✓The client wants lift and directional control rather than a round curl — they prefer the look of separated, upward-fanned lashes over a traditional curled result.
- ✓A history of lifts dropping between appointments — the Korean method's root-level redirection addresses the growth pattern directly and tends to hold more consistently.
Stay with your traditional lift when the client loves a defined, dramatic curl — the rod wrap is still the best way to deliver it. And every rule that applies to your other chemical services applies here too: if the lashes fail your integrity assessment, or the client has had a chemical lash service within the standard window, the answer is conditioning and rebooking, not processing. Same chemistry, same respect for the lash.
3. What You Need
What you need depends on where you're starting from — and if you're already performing lash services, most of your trolley carries straight over. Find your situation:
Already using Elleeplex Profusion?
You're two products away: Elleemix Powder ($30) and the Ultra Flex Flat Shields ($13.95). Add the Elleebana Lash and Brow Lamination Wrap ($10) if it's not already in your brow lamination setup — you'll use it during processing. About $44 in new product and you can practice this week.
Lifting with Elleebana One Shot?
One Shot is built for traditional adhesive-based lifts — the Korean paste is made by mixing Elleemix into Elleeplex Profusion's lotion, so Profusion is the system this technique runs on. One Shot stays exactly where it is for your traditional services; Profusion comes in for your Korean services. (Curious how the two systems compare overall? Read One Shot vs. Elleeplex Profusion.)
The Korean Lash Lift Pro Bundle ($153.95) solves this in one order — Elleeplex Profusion refills (10 services), Elleemix Powder, the Ultra Flex Flat Shields, Elleeplex ReGEN, and the Lamination Wrap. Everything else — balm, remover, pads, tools, disposables — carries over from your traditional lift trolley.
Just want to try the technique before committing? The Korean Lash Lift Bundle Pack ($121.95) covers 5 services with the same essentials — just add the wrap separately. And if you'd rather bring Profusion in as your full lift and brow lamination system, the Elleeplex Profusion Full Kit (30 shots, $265) is the better per-service value — then Elleemix, the flat shields, and the wrap are your only Korean-specific additions.
Not offering lash lifts yet?
Start with How to Add Lash Lifts to Your Menu — it covers your complete from-scratch setup — then come back here when you're ready to add the Korean technique on top.
4. The Elleemix Mixing Guide
The paste is the technique — get the ratio right and everything downstream gets easier. Elleemix is mixed into your Elleeplex Profusion lotion by percentage, and the ratio determines the texture:
| Powder % | Ratio (Powder : Lotion) | Resulting Texture | Best For |
|---|---|---|---|
| 30% | 3 : 7 | Stable cream | Korean — finer lashes (also the freestyle mix) |
| 40% | 2 : 3 | Very thick, tacky cream | Korean / glueless — most services |
| 50% | 1 : 1 | Maximum thickness — paste-like for strong hold | Korean / glueless — coarse, resistant lashes |
For the Korean technique, mix 30–50% Elleemix into your Step 1 and adjust based on lash thickness and resistance — most services land in the 40–50% range, where the paste is tacky enough to hold the lashes firmly on the shield. One 5g jar yields up to 100 applications.
Mix thoroughly, and never go past a 1:1 ratio — too much powder dilutes the lotion's active strength, which can weaken your lift and slow processing. If you need more grip for coarse or resistant lashes, stay at 1:1 and extend your processing based on the flex check instead of adding more powder.
5. Step-by-Step Korean Lash Lift Protocol
This protocol assumes you've completed Korean lash lift training — the Elleebana Korean Lash Lift Online Training Course covers the full technique. Use this as your working reference, and read it through completely before your first service.
Consult and assess the lashes
Check lash integrity, natural growth direction, and lash lift history the same way you would before any chemical service. Note the growth pattern specifically — downward-growing and misdirected lashes are where this technique shines, and knowing where they are before you start lets you plan your placement.
Cleanse thoroughly and dry
Remove all makeup, oil, and residue completely. The paste needs clean, dry lashes to grip and process evenly — any barrier left on the lashes shows up later as an uneven lift.
Place under-eye pads and position the flat shield
Secure your under-eye pads, then seat the Ultra Flex Flat Shield snugly against the lid at the lash line. The Ultra Flex shields are one size and flex to fit the eye shape — a clean, gap-free fit at the base is what gives you that lifted-from-the-root result.
Mix your Step 1 paste
Combine your Elleeplex Profusion Step 1 Lift Lotion with 30–50% Elleemix Powder and blend until you have a smooth, paste-like consistency. Adjust the ratio to the lashes in front of you — thicker for coarse or resistant lashes. Mix fresh for each service.
Apply a thin layer of paste to the base of the shield
The paste goes on the shield first — a thin, even layer across the base. This is what the lashes will grip in place of adhesive, so keep the coverage consistent from inner to outer corner.
Wrap the lashes onto the shield, then coat for full coverage
Using a flat tip brush or microbrush, wrap the lashes up onto the pasted shield, aligning each section as you go. As you continue wrapping, apply an additional layer of the powder-lotion mix over the lashes for full coverage and strong adhesion. Lift from the base, keep your sections clean, and let the tack do the holding — this is where the technique earns its reputation for control.
Cover with the Lamination Wrap and process Step 1
Cover the lashes with Elleebana Lash and Brow Lamination Wrap — the cling film traps body heat to speed up processing and presses stubborn, straight lashes firmly against the shield so they stay in place. Use the flex check to know when Step 1 is done: gently bend a lash — if it folds easily into a V-shape and feels soft and pliable without springing back, the bonds have broken down enough and you're ready to remove. If it resists or only curves into a C-shape, it needs more time.
| Lash Type | Step 1 — Lift | Step 2 — Setting |
|---|---|---|
| Fine | 5–8 min | 5–8 min |
| Medium | 8–12 min | 6–10 min |
| Strong | 12–15 min | 8–12 min |
Treat these times as your framework and let the lashes make the call — flex check before removing Step 1, and confirm the set at Step 2 by watching for lashes that bounce back and hold their new curl. For the full timing breakdown by lash type, read the complete processing times guide.
Remove Step 1 completely
Wipe away all of the Step 1 paste with a dry lint-free wand or pad before moving on. Any paste left behind keeps processing underneath your Step 2 and muddies your result — take the extra thirty seconds and confirm the lashes are clean.
Select your rod or shield for Step 2
The flat shield's job is done — now replace it with the rod or shield that creates your client's desired result. Choose based on the finish you mapped out in the consultation: rods give more curl, while shields create a stronger lift. Not sure which to reach for? The Shields vs. Rods guide covers the choice, and the Shield and Rod Size Guide covers sizing.
Mix and apply Step 2 to set the lift
Mix your Step 2 Setting Lotion with a lighter 20–30% Elleemix ratio — the lashes are already pliable and adhere more easily at this stage — and wrap the lashes onto your chosen rod or shield, applying evenly and keeping them well-wrapped and fully coated. Lift Lockers are recommended to keep the lashes securely in place, and cover with the wrap again to maintain heat through the setting phase. For very resistant or coarse lashes, a 1:1 ratio may be suitable. You'll know the set is complete when the lashes bounce back and hold their new curl.
Remove, release, and condition
Remove all product, gently release the lashes from the rod or shield, and finish with Elleeplex ReGEN as your conditioning treatment. Brush through, and let the client see that soft, elongated lift for the first time.
Your first few Korean lash lifts will feel slow — that's normal. You're learning to work with the paste instead of adhesive, and Elleeplex Profusion's processing times run longer than One Shot's. Allow about 90 minutes while you're learning; most artists settle into 60–75 minutes once the placement work becomes second nature. The control you gain over placement and direction is exactly what your clients are paying the specialty price for.
6. What to Charge — and What It Costs You
Korean lash lift is a specialty technique, and your pricing should reflect the training and skill behind it. The national average for a Korean lash lift is $120 — adjust to your own market.
Don't price it identically to your traditional lift. You invested in technique-specific training and tools, and the clients seeking this service are actively looking for it — they'll pay for an artist who offers it done right.
- $One set of Elleeplex Profusion Step 1 + Step 2 per service — $6 from a 10 Shot Refill Pack ($60)
- $Elleemix costs about $0.30 per service — one $30 jar covers up to 100 applications
- $Roughly $6–7 in core product against a $120 ticket — and one refill pack alone covers $1,200 in services
A tint after the lift is the easiest upsell on this service — a few extra minutes, pennies in product, and $30 or more on the ticket. The tinting protocol is the same after a Korean lift as any lift, so follow the Lash Lift and Tint Guide when you're ready to offer the combo.
7. Get Trained Before You Book
This guide gives you the full protocol, but complete proper training before this service goes on your menu — the paste consistency, the placement work, and the processing judgment all come together with instruction and practice.
The online training course ($97) covers the technique in full — the Korean method, freestyle lifting, and adhesive-free application — with a certificate of completion. Produced by Elleebana and delivered through their training platform, it's the direct path from reading this guide to booking the service.
Prefer to learn with a trainer, in person or online? Visit our Education page to get matched with an Elleebana trainer.
Everything in this guide is for trained, licensed professionals. Before offering Korean lash lift services, make sure you're meeting your state's licensing and scope-of-practice requirements — they vary by location.
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If you have questions along the way — about the paste, the shields, or whether this technique fits your menu — just reach out. I'm always happy to help.
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Frequently Asked Questions
This guide is for educational purposes for licensed beauty professionals. Pricing shown is based on national averages and is provided as an example only — set your own pricing based on your market. Licensing and scope-of-practice requirements for lash services vary by state and locality — check with your local government licensing agency to confirm the specific requirements that apply to you. Always follow Elleebana's current protocol guidance and complete proper training before performing this technique. Lash Lift Society is an Authorized Elleebana USA Distributor and is not affiliated with any state licensing board.